hawai'i
The most remote island chain on earth, smack dab in the Pacific. To understand and love the culture goes beyond any picturesque postcard, but even through a visitor’s lens it is unmistakable why Hawai’i is Paradise.
Food To Try
Food is a huge part of the culture.
Poke Bowls (Foodland markets, Fresh Catch)
Malasadas, a deep fried Portuguese donut. (Leonards, Kamehameha Bakery)
Poi glazed donuts (Kamehameha Bakery)
Oat Cake at Starbucks. It’s a Hawai’i-exclusive item and it’s so good!
Loco Moco (hamburger patty over rice, cracked egg over all of it)
Shave Ice (Matsumoto’s North Shore, Waiola’s in town by Stadium Park, Keneke’s Waimanalo, Kokonuts Hawai'i Kai, Island Snow Kailua) Ice cream on bottom or condensed milk (aka Mauna Kea snow on top)
Acai Bowls (Island Vintage, Honolulu Coffee Co, Island Brewhouse)
KBBQ Plate Lunch (Pearl’s, Peppa’s, Yummy’s) They don’t have plate lunch KBBQ like this on the mainland which is why you need to try it here. Depending on how much you want to eat, you choose the size of your plate (amount of sides will vary and your choice of meat or meat combo - I recommend getting kalbi, meat jun, or mandoo) and sides can be kim chee, watercress, etc.
Spam Musubi (Zippy’s, 7-11, Shirokiya if you want it to also come with bacon, egg, and avocado)
Poi, our Hawaiian starch staple made from the taro root. (they sell it in the bags at Safeway)
Kulolo (this is more a side of the road thing, I’ve seen it on the Windward side - anywhere from Nalo up to Kualoa Ranch. It’s poi mixed with coconut milk to make a thick and chewy dessert, kind of with a chewy rice cake consistency)
Haupia (coconut in jello consistency form)
Shrimp Trucks (Giovanni’s)
Fresh Fruit: Mango, Lychee, Papaya, Apple Banana
Lumpia (Elena's, a Filipino fried spring roll)
Guri Guri (originated on Maui, guri guri - most likely deriving from “goody goody” is a creamy ice cake made with condensed milk. I found random places in downtown Kalihi that have cups of Guri Guri, but you can always go to Samurai’s in Aiea to get a cup.
Pizza - Boston’s Pizza. You didn’t necessarily come to Hawai’i to eat pizza, but if you happen to pass by a Boston’s, you need to try the spinach garlic pizza. Slices are HUGE and can be shared. The crust is thin and delicious.
Ani’s sweetbread. Most locals are familiar with ripping pieces straight from the loaf pan and microwaving with butter. You can buy this at Walmart, Sam’s Club and other select grocers.
Taro bread (Leonard’s, Kamehameha Bakery, Liliha Bakery, grocery stores). A sweet bread that incorporates our Hawaiian starch staple of poi. Purple and delicious.
Snow Puffies (Pa’ala’akai Bakery) located in Waialua on the North Shore, close to Haleiwa Town. This bakery will often run out of items, come early if can! Snow puffies are delicious cream puffs topped with powdered sugar and chocolate fudge.
Overlooked but not to be missed is Hawai’i-exclusive McDonald’s menu items including haupia (coconut) pie or taro pie (pies flavors are seasonal), saimin, or the breakfast plates (scrambled egg, rice and spam or portuguese sausage).
For places to eat, scroll down to the “Places to Eat” section
easy HIKES (O'AHU)
You’re in a new place. You want views. You don’t want finding the trailhead to be difficult and you also don’t want your car getting broken into. Here’s the best for all that:
Diamond head
Very touristy, but great to do at least once. You’ll have great panoramic views of Waikiki all the way down to Koko Head from the top. The hike is not difficult at all. There is one stair portion, but overall very safe and not taxing. Hike and then enjoy food at Diamond Head Grill or one of the other restaurants along Monsarat before or after.
makapu'u lighthouse
Parking can be extremely crowded but there’s usually enough turnover that you’ll eventually snag a spot. The hike to the lighthouse is a paved road all the way up. It does incline quite a bit, but nothing dangerous (on a weekday you may see kids of a field trip). Probably a 20 minute hike up to the lighthouse. You can also hike down the cliffside to the Makapu’u tidepools once you’re close to the top, but if unfamiliar with Hawaiian landscape or the way the waves come in, it can be dangerous.
I wouldn’t call this an easy hike being that you’re literally lunging up an old train track straight to the top. It’s the stairmaster from hell, but the hike is pretty straightforward, the views are amazing at the top (Hanauma Bay to Diamond Head and the neighbor island of Moloka’i on a clear day) andddd Obama does it. There is a parking lot where you will most likely score parking.
Parking can be tough in Lanikai but if you keep circling around enough, you’re bound to find a spot in the residential neighborhood. The hike is very short, not more than 20 minutes to the top where the bunkers are. The views are rewarding at any time of day. After your hike cool off at Lanikai beach.
There is a parking lot, or you can park in the residential neighborhood of Manoa, just before Treetops restaurant (which recently closed). The hike is not dangerous or rigorous, there’s a lot of tourists on it these days. The terrain is relatively flat the whole time, it’s about a 20 minute hike to the waterfall. You can go in the water, it will just be really cold especially when it’s not a sunny day. This trail can get muddy. A good family-friend hike and hike for dogs.
Park in the residential neighborhood. There are multiple trails you can take on the Maunawili hike, but follow the crowd and it will lead you to the main one. There are streams along the hike that you will have to jump over (or walk straight through if that’s your kind of thing). It does get slippery and you might fall in mud, so be careful of that. At one of the falls many people do go in the water, just don’t go in if you’ve got an open cut.
Less of a hike and more of a flat-terrain stroll, about 5 miles round trip if coming from the Wai’anae side, about 6 miles round trip if coming from the Mokule’ia side. This will take you to the most western tip of the island, where it’s believed in Hawai’i that souls launch off this point into the next life. You’ll pass the Natural Area Reserve if coming from the Wai’anae side. It’s a beautiful view at the tip with Waialua to your right and the Waianae mountain range to your left.
This is a relatively quick hike but it does get steeper at the top once you’re closer to the arch. Park or get dropped off at the Halona Blowhole parking lot and CAREFULLY walk across the street towards the mountain towards mile marker 15. That’s the trailhead and you’ll need to scale rocks. It will then level off somewhat before a final ascent to the top where the arch is. Go up the left side of the arch. The right side has a lot of loose rocks that can be really slippery.
BEACHES (O'AHU)
Beaches everywhere on O'ahu can be crowded, but they timelessly serve to remind us that the best things in life are free.
Cockroach Cove
Right next to the Halona Blowhole (it shares the same limited parking lot). You’ll hike down to Cockroach Cove from the highway. Waters can be choppy, depending on the time of year. Overall a great beach to bring speakers to, hang out and catch some sun.
Lanikai
Calm waters, fine sand, no surf. You’ll see kayaks, stand-up paddle boards and canoes. Perfect beach to bring an inner tube and float around. Park in the residential neighborhood (you may have to circle the block many times).
Kaimana Beach
Aka San Suzy (from back in the day). The beach just left of the aquarium auditorium if you’re facing the ocean. There’s plenty of (old school, coins only) metered parking surrounding Kapiolani Park across the street. It’s a small beach with calm waters and a great overall family beach ideal for putting up some tents and throwing a family-friendly party.
AD's
Short for “Alan Davis”. Take a piece of wood (formerly a telephone poll), flip it on its side, squeeze it between some rocks and use it as a diving board. That’s what we do at AD’s. Park at the Makaupu’u lighthouse parking lot and walk down towards the beach instead of up on the paved road towards the hike. You can chill up on the rocks, take turns diving off, or lounge by the small (and kind of dirty) patch of sand at AD’s. The water is usually really clear, you can see right to the bottom.
Diamond Head & Cromwells
Cromwells is usually one of my go-to spots if I a) don’t want to drive far from town and b) avoid Waikiki. You can usually find street parking in the residential area even on a crowded day, you just may have to walk a little farther. Once you’re at Cromwells you can either venture left to Doris Duke’s and that cove or walk right and lay out on the sand. It’s a good all-day beach to have a picnic and bring your dogs.
Hanauma Bay
Catch the sunrise in the bay, it’s picturesque and breathtaking. In ancient Hawai’i, Hanauma Bay used to be a beach where the ali’i (chiefs/royals) would play. Nowadays it’s very touristy, but if you come before the sunrise, parking is free and you beat the crowds of tourists. Bring blankets, towels, snorkeling masks and a camera.
Ala Moana Beach Park
Sunscreen literally seems to be the top layer on the water at Ala Moana beach park but hey, it’s a popular spot for a reason. Family and tourist friendly. The park is vast, so even though it gets crowded with activity (runners, beach football, etc) you can easily find a spot to post up. It’s a great beach to bring a BBQ and have potluck.
Waimea
Classic beach to visit for the surf, you’ll recognize Waimea Bay by the view of the unmistakable surf tower. Looking out towards the ocean from the bay, you’ll see on the left hand side a tall rock formation that locals will be on, some of them jumping and diving off. They say that if you climb a beach rock it’s bad luck not to jump off!
Queen's Beach
Right in the heart of Waikiki close to the Duke statue. You can count on crowds of tourists, people taking surf lessons and a lot of hustle and bustle in this iconic area of Waikiki. Beautiful sunsets and a close view of Diamond Head. It’s one of the quintessential beach spots in Waikiki and really pretty during sunset.
Ehukai & Shark's Cove
Another beach on the North Shore where they now dump tourists off by the busload, but a relatively vast beach nonetheless (there’s room for everyone). Right next to Ehukai across the bridge is Sunrise Shack, one of my favorite stands on the North Shore because the serve Bulletproof coffee and tea (along with other health-conscious menu items). Don’t let the elevated sand fool you, waves will crash up that high. Set your towels a bit back from even the lip. Shark’s Cove will be a bit more protective with the tidepools being enclosed from big waves by sea rock. Great place to bring the kids.
Makapu'u
You can either line the highway or park in the tiny Makapu’u parking lot. You’ll see a lot of body boarders at Makapu’u especially during the summer when the swells change. The windward side tends to be more cloudy, so Makapu’u is a hit or miss if you’re going purely for sun and tanning. Lots of locals, not as friendly of a beach for tourists.
Waimanalo
This beach park will usually have parking. It’s a great beach to bring a boogie board and have an all day barbeque with friends and family. Be careful if there are strong current, box jellyfish or man-o-war warning signs posted that day!
Sandy's
Don’t ever underestimate the break at Sandy’s. Lots of tourists make the mistake of letting their kids get too close to the water. The break is aggressive, the flags are there for a reason. If you’re staying on the sand, that’s perfect. You’ll see lots of trucks backed into stalls with coolers and barbeques in the beds. Some people will literally stay at Sandy’s all day as groups of friends come through and hang out. There’s also a nice stretch of park where kids fly kites (or drones these days). Nowadays you can find food trucks at Sandy’s.
Kahala
Right next to the famous resort, Kahala beach tends to be relaxing and not too crowded. The waters are calm and the beach right in front of the hotel is a great place to take a nap. Kahala is also a great place to take photos (graduation, engagement, pregnancy, etc).
Turtle Bay
Park at the Turtle Bay resort and tell the guards you’re going to the beach, they will give you a pass for your car. The resort has to allow beach access, but not everyone knows you are allowed to park there. There’s many different beach areas to lay your towel out and you can see surf lessons on one area of the resort.
Ko'Olina Lagoons
The Ko’Olina lagoons are beautiful. Even though this part of the island is crawling with some of the big resorts (Disney Aulani, Ihilani, etc), public parking is available and beach access is free! Bring coolers with picnic food and innertubes and enjoy the calm waters in the multiple lagoons.
China Walls
Park in the Portlock residential neighborhood. China Walls looks good on Instagram but probably a better beach for locals than tourists. People do bring chairs, coolers and stereos and lounge on the rocks while others jump off. If you don’t know how the waves break in Hawai’i, it’s best to not come here, especially because the break is harsher on a cliffside with deep blue water instead of sand.
GIFTS
Best gifts to bring back from Hawai’i
Chocolate covered macadamia nuts (dark, milk, white, toffee, matcha, so many varieties)
Macadamia nut assortment (Maui onion, honey roasted, original) from our brands like Mauna Loa, Hamakua, Island Princess
Taro chips (found at Long's or ABC Stores)
Cookies from Big Island Candies (half-dipped shortbread cookies, sample them at the Ala Moana or Waikiki kiosks/locations)
Cookie Corner Lilikoi Bars (multiple locations)
Lilikoi Butter
Hawaiian Honey
Mango, Guava Tea bags
Pineapple candies (ABC Stores which are everywhere in Waikiki)
Kona Coffee
Hawaiian Salt
Fake flowers for hair (plumeria and hibiscus is common)
Stickers from one our local brands and surf shops (U-Down, 808 All Day, Hi Life, Defend Hawai’i)
Pineapple shaped cutting board from Martin & MacArthur
Hurricane Popcorn (bring back furikake - from Long's or a grocery store and mochi crunch) to build a classic Hawai’i-original treat. They also sell ready-made packages of Hurricane popcorn at the grocery stores.
Li Hing Mui (a sugar powder that’s both a bit sweet and tart - that you can put on apples or oranges, similar to a sweet chili powder)
Chocolate Haystacks from Honolulu Chocolate Company. (Choose from white, milk, or dark chocolate in delicious clusters of top quality chocolate with shredded coconut and mac nuts. It’s amazing. On the expensive side, a small box will cost you about $13) *update April 2018: The Ward location has closed by the Waikiki location is still open.
Gifts from crack seed shops like Wholesale (li hing mui mango, li hing mui seeds, mochi crunch (also called kaki mochi, rice cracker, arare), furikake mix). Long's will also have it in their snack aisle.
Color Gum (sold at Long’s, these hair ties are a staple amongst us wahine (women). You can cut each color gum in half and make 2 hair bands out of it. They are really flexible and don’t come with that annoying metal clasp that snags hair. Sold in a variety of colors. Cheap and practical gift.
Ukulele. You can probably find a $10 one in Waikiki.
Be careful not to take any shells, sand or rocks without leaving something meaningful of yours in exchange.
PLACES TO EAT (O'AHU)
Roy’s (Hawai’i Kai & Waikiki)
Must-try’s: any seafood dish, chocolate souffle
The Hawai’i Kai location is their flagship restaurant and nothing beats the view of the sunset over Maunalua Bay. The main dining is on the second level, so you do have an elevated panoramic view over-looking the water, extending all the way to Diamond Head. Everyone from the hostess to the chefs to the servers are so welcoming and friendly and will typically greet you as you navigate your way towards your seat. Save room for the chocolate souffle, it takes 20 minutes to bake in the oven and is absolutely divine.
Dining Category: Nice-to-formal or bar options, office party, anniversary
Zippy’s (multiple locations)
Must-try’s: zip pac if you’re heading to the beach, orange bang, spam musubi, zippy’s chili, saimin
Undoubtedly a dining cornerstone, locations are everywhere with most open 24/7. You can dine-in or takeout. Most Zippy's locations will have a restaurant section with wait service or the informal (order at the counter and find your own seat) section. The Zippy's tagline is "Next.Stop.Zippy's" for a reason!
Dining Category: casual, on-the-go, group, late night
Diamond Head Market & Grill (Diamond Head)
Must-try’s: Carrot cake with mac nuts, blueberry cream cheese scone, Okinawan sweet potato squares
The grill is the plate lunch section (serving up yummy burgers, fish plates, etc) and next door is a their bakery, a grab and go section with healthy options and a ton of bakery items that people rave about.
Dining Category: casual, on-the-go, desserts, limited dining area
Giovanni’s (Haleiwa & Kahuku)
Must-try’s: coconut shrimp & garlic shrimp
Make sure you have plenty of napkins and buy your own drinks.
Dining Category: food trucks, casual, on-the-go
Moana Surfrider (Waikiki)
Must-try’s: The signature Moana Surfrider Afternoon Tea
Nothing makes you feel classier than having afternoon tea with views of the ocean out on the Banyan Veranda lanai. There are so many flavors of tea to choose from (they let you smell all before selecting) and an impressive spread of tea sandwiches and desserts. If you are with company who isn’t feeling the afternoon tea, they can order off the regular menu which boasts a selection of great food (ahi salads, acai bowls, etc). Located in the Sheraton Moana (our oldest hotel on the island)
Dining Category: both casual and nice to formal options, beach
Duke’s (Waikiki)
Must-try’s: Mud pie and anything on the menu
A solid option if you're dining in Waikiki. Central to everything and right on the beach, Duke’s is great for big parties. Perfect for any time of day.
Dining Category: casual, beach, good for big groups, special occasions
Bubbies (Hawai’i Kai)
Must-try’s: mochi ice cream, spangler (ice cream covered w/ belgium chocolate, served in a cone)
Bubbies closed down their location by University of Hawai’i in town, so the only remaining location is in Hawai’i Kai. As far as ice cream goes, their flavor, texture & innovative menu items cannot be beat.
Dining Category: dessert, casual, on-the-go
Crepes No Ka Oi (Kailua & Kahala)
Must-try’s: Tiki Torch, Berry Heavenly
Located in Kailua and new location in Kahala Mall! If you are staying in town, getting to the original Crepes No Ka Oi in Kailua is a nice drive over Pali Highway which connects the eastside of the island to town. The restaurant is small, clean, and well decorated. Even visitors from France say they love the crepes.
Dining Category: casual, small group
Tanaka of Tokyo (multiple locations)
Must-try’s: surf and turf options, garlic fried rice
Tanaka of Tokyo is Hawai’i’s premiere Teppanyaki. The chefs are always so engaging, with the best tricks (onion volcanos, knives flying everywhere, fires lighting up the grill). It’s such a fun experience to have dinner and a show and the food is so good. Be sure to tip the chefs at the end.
Dining Category: nice to formal, small parties, entertainment
Goma Tei (Ala Moana)
Must-try's: char siu ramen, gyoza
Delicious ramen (the broth!) in a casual setting with table and bar options. I highly recommend trying the pork ramen & gyoza. You will have to put your name down on a list, they don’t accept reservations.
Dining Category: casual, small groups
Boston's Pizza (multiple locations)
Must-try’s: Spinach & garlic pizza
Often overlooked is Boston’s Pizza, probably because when you think Hawai’i, your mind doesn’t immediately go to pizza. Boston’s Pizza is thin-crusted, HUGE slices of pizza. Literally a slice will be a whole meal.
Dining Category: casual, on-the-go, limited dining area
Mo'ena Cafe (Hawai'i Kai & Kapolei)
Must-try's: Kalua pig benedict, short rib loco moco
Casual dining, but the interior makes it look like an upscale cafe. The menu is perfect for brunch, a good mix of classic breakfast and Hawaiian-inspired menu items. Each menu item is served in very decorative fashion and Instagrammable presentation.
Dining Category: casual, brunch, cafe, dine-in
Other dining options
Napoleon's Bakery (multiple locations)
Must-try’s: coconut naple (can’t get that on the mainland)
Located alongside all Zippy’s, Napoleon's Bakery boasts a huge selection of dessert.
Dining Category: desserts, casual
Side Street Inn (Ala Moana and Kapahulu)
Must-try’s: signature fried rice, furikake crusted ahi filet, pulehu short ribs, lilikoi creme brulee
They have multiple locations, the newer/nicer one being on Kapahulu Avenue (close to the zoo)
Dining Category: casual, big groups, birthdays, special occasions
Rainbows (Kapahulu/edge of Wakiki)
Must-try’s: mahi plate with rice & mac salad
Located very close to the zoo, this is one of our famous plate lunch places. Parking and seating is limited, a lot of people just roll up, order, then go.
Dining Category: casual, on-the-go
Keneke’s (Waimanalo)
Must-try’s: Plate lunch (Kalua pig plate)
Side of the road in Waimanalo, this is where the locals come for plate lunches. You can also treat yourself to shave ice if you’re coming from the beach and just trying to cool off.
Dining Category: casual, plate lunch, on-the-go
W&M Burger (Kaimuki)
Must-try’s: Any burger and literally any dessert.
W&M has odd hours (closed on Mondays and Tuesdays) and only open for a small period of time during the day during lunch (typically 11 am - 2 pm is your best bet). The small parking lot has about 5 stalls but don’t let that deter you. Burgers are classics and they have unique desserts like custard butter mochi.
Dining Category: casual, on-the-go, takeout only
Times Coffee Shop (Kailua)
Must-try’s: Bacon fried rice.
Very casual diner sitting just outside the bustle of the now very touristy downtown Kailua. Lots of locals, small parking lot.
Dining Category: diner, casual, small groups
Korean BBQ Plate (Peppa's, Yummy's, Pearl's)
Must-try’s: Combo plate of meat jun, mandoo or kalbi.
There’s a ton of KBBQ places in the mainland, but none of the same plate lunch variety that we have in Hawai’i. Plate lunches depending on size and entree order allows you to choose from a variety of classic Korean entrees (or combos) and a series of banchan.
Dining Category: casual, on-the-go
Home Bar & Grill (Ala Moana)
Must-try’s: kalbi short ribs, home salad, kim chee fried rice, garlic chicken, poke
Totally a place to bring a gathering of people. Home has a definite sports bar appeal, very casual and bustling, tv’s throughout the restaurant. Everything on the menu is a hit.
Dining Category: casual, good for big groups, parties
Kozo Sushi (multiple locations)
Must-try's: any handroll
Handrolls are classic beach snacks. Tekka maki, spicy tuna roll, spam roll, etc. They are literally all simple and satisfying with shoyu, ginger and wasabi.
Dining Category: casual, on-the-go, takeout only
The Alley at Aiea Bowl (Aiea)
Must-try's: "tasty chicken", Alley mix plate, pumpkin crunch cake, lemon crunch cake
You wouldn’t necessarily associate a bowling alley with being a dining destination but some people do come here literally to just eat and not bowl!
Kaka’ako Kitchen (Ward)
Must-try's: ahi salad, garlic macadamia pesto chicken wrap, wagyu burger
More “upscale” plate lunch dining located at the Ward Center close to Ala Moana Shopping Center and Waikiki. Enjoyed by locals and visitors alike. Plates are $10-$15 with options to also order bentos.
Dining Category: casual, local food, gourmet, plate lunch
Teddy’s Bigger Burger (multiple locations)
Must-try's: “Spudtacular”, “Kaneohe”
Surprisingly, a lot of people I’ve talked to on the mainland can’t remember Teddy’s by name, but once they describe it to me, I know they are talking about Teddy’s. Burgers are massive, with killer combos that combine burger classics with Hawaiian flavors (Kilauea Fire BBQ, anyone?) and Hawaiian names “Kaneohe” or “Bleu Wave” to name a few. You can also add toppings as you please.
Dining Category: casual, on-the-go, chain, burgers, fast-food
Mocha Java (Ward)
Must-try's: Belgian waffles, wraps, acai bowls
Mocha Java serves up wraps, sandwiches, salads, acai bowls, you name it. Informal dining with seating right in the middle of the small mall. Order at the counter and sit. If cafes are your thing, definitely give this place a try.
Dining Category: casual, cafe, limited dining area
Big City Diner (multiple locations)
Must-try's: famous Hawaiian spice soy beans, baby back ribs with Guava-BBQ sauce, Kimchee fried rice
I don’t immediately think “healthy” when I think of Big City Diner, but they now have a “Blue Zones” section of their menu dedicated to healthier options. Big City Diner is usually good for groups of people. Order many dishes and share family-style. Portions are huge and they are open late. $6.99 Keiki (kids) menu and specials throughout the week.
Dining Category: casual, big parties, family-style, local food
Yanagi Sushi (late night specials, Ward)
Must-try's: blackened ahi sashimi, karaage, toro
Fun option for late-night dinners and get-togethers. Yanagi Sushi is open until 2 am, with late night specials starting at 10:30 pm (on drinks, sushi and combo meals). For medium sized parties, they may give you your own little sectioned off room. Bar and regular seating options are also available. There is usually a wait on weekend nights.
Dining Category: late night, drinks, sushi, good for groups, bar
Shokudo (Ala Moana)
Must-try’s: spicy tuna crispy rice sushi, bi bim bap, garlic shrimp rice, banana flambe, honey toast-tini (known for this)
Conveniently located at Ala Moana Shopping Center, Shokudo is great for reservations of all sizes (dates, big parties, etc) and the restaurant is pretty expansive with separate rooms and mini-half levels to accommodate different party sizes. The menu is extensive and I totally remember we used to love coming here for late night dinners during high school. The energy is lively and fun and the food is ono (delicious).
Dining Category: late night, Japanese, parties, dine-in
